“For Christmas I’m ordering a pizza.”

The writer Maya Kosoff announced this intention on Medium after finding the usually enjoyable process of cooking a Thanksgiving feast to be kind of a slog this year, on the heels of months of pandemic soup and stew production. The joylessness of assembling yet another meal was also the subject of an excellent essay by the food writer Helen Rosner in the New Yorker last week, in which she articulated the angst of many of us who have made it through our repertoire of meals several times over since the pandemic began: “In theory, I love to cook,” Rosner wrote. “But I am so, so sick of cooking.”